Arts & Culture

Between the Lines: A Book Lover's Providence Itinerary

About Between the Lines: A Book Lover's Providence Itinerary

Some vacations you come home with a tan. Others you come home with a stack of books and a head full of stories you can't stop talking about. Providence is the second kind of trip. The bookstores are the kind worth lingering in, the literary history runs deep (and a little bit weird), and you can find a spot to curl up with a good book around just about every corner.

Itinerary Details

A luxury hotel lobby features a leather sofa, glass chandelier, and a cascading crystal light installation beneath an exposed brick wall.

Where to Stay

For a literary getaway, you can't go wrong with The Beatrice. Wrap up in an indulgent plush bathrobe, order a curated assortment of goodies from the snack attendant and lose yourself in your favorite novel. Best of all, the hotel features Bea's Book of the Month, an homage to the hotel's namesake Beatrice Temkin. Just request this month's book as an amenity and it will be waiting in your room when you arrive. In the spirit of keeping things local, books are purchased from Symposium Books, just blocks away on Westminster Street. (And definitely worth a browse if you're in the mood for shopping.)

For something more intimate, the Christopher Dodge House, a restored 1858 inn near the Rhode Island State House, The VETS and Providence Place Mall, offers the kind of quiet atmosphere that suits a book retreat well. Grab your book and settle in by the common room's gas stove with a cup of tea for a quiet afternoon of reading.

Symposium Books storefront on a brick sidewalk, with blue bistro tables out front and shoppers browsing a book table beneath a blue canopy.

What to Do

Start on foot. Providence Tour Company's Dark Tales: Haunted Authors of Providence Tour is the most efficient way to absorb the city's literary history in a single outing, connecting the writers who lived and worked here to the streets they walked.

Then head inside. Lovecraft Arts & Sciences, tucked into the historic Arcade Providence, is stocked with books, collectibles and gifts in the spirit of Providence's own godfather of weird fiction and is worth an unhurried hour. For a more in-depth look at H.P. Lovecraft's life in Providence, ask for a self-guided tour map of significant locations, including the house where he was born and his final resting place in Swan Point Cemetery. (If you're a real fan, plan your visit in August for NecronomiCon Providence, a biennial celebration of all things Lovecraft.)

No literary trip to Providence is complete without time in its bookshops. Symposium Books on Westminster St. is right at the heart of the downtown scene, and the type of store where you go in for one book and come out with a stack. Surrounded by local shops and cafes, it's the perfect location to spend a morning. Over on the East Side, don't miss Books on the Square (where you can even bring your favorite furry friend) or Brown Bookstore for more bookish browsing. Pop into Paper Nautilus while you're in the neighborhood and explore their collection of rare books.

Inside Chop, a bright industrial-style café with exposed silver ductwork, modern chandeliers, leather dining chairs at long wooden tables, a potted palm, and an orange leather armchair in the foreground

Where to Eat

Providence restaurants and bars take their literary culture seriously. CHOP, the restaurant inside the Providence Public Library, features a cocktail menu named entirely after books and authors.  Not only that, but it's also a training ground for the Genesis Center, offering experience in the restaurant industry. This brings a constantly changing menu featuring a wide variety of global cuisines and flavors. (Pro Tip: Do not miss the chocolate chip cookies. They might be the best in the city.) Be sure to explore the library itself while you're there. At 150 years old, the building is home to all kinds of literary history.

In a brunch mood? Head to Nicks on Broadway just about any day of the week. Their Finnegan's Wake-up (cold brew coffee with a touch of Irish whiskey) is more than just a nod to James Joyce. It's the perfect accompaniment to anything on the menu. If Greek mythology is more your thing, try Courtland Club for their Home of the Gods cocktail or a spirit-free Myth of Persephone. For something a little more modern, Riffraff in the West End doubles as a bookstore and a bar, ideal for a browse and a drink. And there's almost always something interesting happening, from book clubs and readings to trivia and live music.

Athenaeum

If You Only Do One Thing

One of the oldest membership libraries in America, the Providence Athenaeum has been standing on Benefit St. since 1838. The collection spans more than 150,000 volumes, the reading rooms are exactly what you hope a 19th century library looks like, and the history inside is remarkable. This is where Edgar Allan Poe and local poet Sarah Helen Whitman courted amid the stacks. (Pro Tip: Take a Providence Ghost Tour for more details on that relationship and rumors that Poe's spirit still lingers here today. You'll even find him listed on the library website's staff directory.)

If you're old enough to remember research in the days before Google, you won't want to miss the card catalog. Many of the cards inside were hand-written in the 19th century by Mary Angell, the library's first female employee, and Grace Leonard, the first female head librarian.

Although it is a membership library, the Athenaeum is open to visitors. For a suggested donation fee of just $5 per person, you'll receive a self-guided tour book and plenty of time to explore. Children and well-behaved pups are welcome too.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can I visit the Providence Athenaeum?

Yes. Although it’s a membership library, the Athenaeum on Benefit Street welcomes visitors for a suggested $5 donation per person, which includes a self-guided tour book. Children and well-behaved dogs are welcome.

What are the best bookstores in Providence?

Browse Symposium Books downtown, Books on the Square and Brown Bookstore on the East Side, rare books at Paper Nautilus, and Lovecraft-themed finds at Lovecraft Arts & Sciences in the Arcade. Riffraff doubles as a bookstore and bar.

Where can I learn about H.P. Lovecraft in Providence?

Start at Lovecraft Arts & Sciences in the Arcade, where you can pick up a self-guided map of significant sites, including his birthplace and his grave in Swan Point Cemetery. Fans can also plan a trip around NecronomiCon Providence, a celebration of all things Lovecraft.

What is Bea’s Book of the Month at The Beatrice?

It’s a free amenity at The Beatrice hotel. Request the current month’s book when you book, and it’ll be waiting in your room when you arrive, purchased from nearby Symposium Books.

Are there literary-themed restaurants and bars?

Yes. CHOP, inside the Providence Public Library, has a cocktail menu named after books and authors, Nicks on Broadway serves a James Joyce-inspired Finnegan’s Wake-up, and Riffraff hosts book clubs, readings and trivia.

How many days do I need for this itinerary?

A weekend is perfect for this book lover’s itinerary, giving you time to browse bookstores, visit the Athenaeum and enjoy a literary-themed meal or two. Add a day to explore Lovecraft sites or take a walking tour.

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